Suggies For Dummies

Before Getting Your Glider(s) HOME, please consider these :-


i ) Cage :-
A sugar glider's cage should be as big as you can manage, although no smaller than 20x20x36 inches high for one or two gliders. Height is a very important thing with glider cages, as your glider feels safer the higher up it is. The wire bars of the cage should be no more than .5 inches apart. This spacing is commonly called budgie bars. It is better to have enameled wire, as galvanized wire is harder to clean and poses a severe health hazard. Do not use metal screening for your cage, because their nails can get caught in it in addition the potential health risks to using uncoated metal. Reptariums make wonderful cages for most gliders. They are large, light, and easy to clean. If your sugar glider is a chewer, you may want to consider something other than a reptarium.

ii ) Cage Location / Atmosphere :-
The location of the cage of you cage should be chosen carefully. Choose a location that isn't loud all the time. Sugar gliders should not be in a room with loud birds, as the sounds birds make will cause stress for your sugar glider. Gliders prefer the sensation of being high up, so if you cage is not a ceiling to floor cage, place it on a sturdy table. The cage should not be in direct sunlight, but should not be in complete darkness either. Room temperature should be between 65 degrees F and 75 degrees F. This is really convenient, as this is the average temperature of most homes.

iii ) Sleeping location :-
In the wild, sugar gliders sleep in hollow trees lined in leaves. Small nesting boxes designed for birds make a great slumber box. Offer fleece "blankets" or "strips" for them to build their nest. Wood boxed that are untreated will get dirty fast and begin to smell. If you use treated nest boxes for your sugar gliders, be sure that all chemicals and paints are animal safe. Some owners prefer to use sleeping pouches that mimic the comfort of being in their "mother's pouch". Sleeping pouches are generally made out of fleece, or other soft, natural, and breathable material. Be sure if using a pouch it is checked often, as pouches do wear out. Some sugar glider will "dig" in their pouches exposing seams and threads. Many sugar gliders have lost their lives by getting caught in loose threads inside the pouch. Which ever you choose, place the item high in the cage. This will make the glider feel safer.

iv ) Toys :-
Sugar gliders are very interactive animals. They should have enough toys in their cage to promote interest, curiosity, and movement. Most bird toys and some cat toys make wonderful toys for sugar gliders. A toy that I would highly recommend is a sugar glider safe wheel. Please don't use wire wheels, or wheels with crossbars as many gliders have gotten their tails caught along with various other injuries.

v ) Branches/Perches :-
Add perches to your gliders cage, of different levels and sizes. Different perch and branch sizes allow your glider to exercise his feet muscles. Sugar gliders love natural branches, although if you choose to get them from outside, they must be sterilized by baking, or boiling. Never add a branch to your cage without doing this, as you could introduce many parasites to you sugar glider, and his home. Some good choices are elm and apple.

vi ) Feeding location :-
It is important with 2 or more sugar gliders, to have more than one feeding station when introducing them, or if you ever notice fighting or aggression over food. One sugar glider could become dominate and not allow the others to eat. Try to have them at different levels in the cage, and on opposite sides.


Sugar Glider Care.

a ) Housing

i ) Size [ Small, Medium, DIY ]
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ii ) Accessories [ Sleeping Pouch ]
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iii ) Feeder [ Metal Bowl, Plate ]
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iv ) Waterer [ Living World, Critter Canteen ]

v ) Toys [ Wheel, Bird Toy, DIY Stuff ]
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vi ) Bedding [ Breeder Celect, Newspaper ]

b ) Bonding
Bonding with your sugar glider can be a rough road, although once you get there, it is worth the trip. Gliders are very social animals, and bond fairly easy. The more time you spend with your glider, the stronger your bond will be.

There are a few tips that can help make this process easier on you and your new sugar glider :-

• When you first bring your glider home, try not to have their cage filled with toys. Sugar gliders are very interactive, but if they have too much fun in their cage, they may not be interested in bonding with you.

• Sugar gliders are capable of identifying members of their "family" by scent. Use a small cloth and wear it close to your skin for a day or so. (some people use an old shirt) Then place it where your glider sleeps. This will get your glider used to your scent, with out you physically being involved. However, make sure you aren't wearing perfumes, as they can be harmful to the glider.

• Use a bonding pouch, (a fabric pouch worn around the neck) this will familiarize your glider with your voice, routine, everyday noises, as well as your scent.

• Try pocket training your sugar glider, wear a tee-shirt with a pocket all day and night, in the morning, remove all pouches and nest boxes, and replace them with your tee-shirt. This will ultimately serve the same purpose as a bonding pouch.

• Move slowly and deliberately around your sugar glider. Fast and sudden movements might frighten your sugar glider. Fast motion could trigger their instinct to defend themselves against a predator attack.

• Speak to your sugar glider frequently using a soft and comforting voice, as this will help you gain their trust. Never raise your voice or use a negative tone, as this will set back the bonding process.

• Use a small room that has been glider proofed, or tent to let your glider out for play time, this will allow the glider to get used to your presence, and greatly aid in the bonding process.

• Always handle your sugar glider with care, just as you would a human baby. Don't grab your sugar glider, or chase him around their cage, as this could scare the glider, and make him less likely to trust you.

• Place your hands in your gliders cage often, offering finger treats, such as applesauce on the tip of your finger, or try offering a mealworm. Stoke your glider gently as often as it will allow.

• Avoid looking directly down in the sugar gliders pouch, or reaching your hands in the pouch. Let the pouch be a "safe" zone for the sugar glider. Cox your glider out using a treat, or gently nudge them out of the pouch from the outside of the pouch.

• Patience is the most important thing in bonding. It will not happen over night, and will take some time.

i) How to Start ? [ Time, Love, Patience, Consistency ]

ii ) Aid [ Bonding Pouch, Scent Patch, Tent Time ]
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c ) Introducing

Introducing sugar gliders can be extremely simple in some cases, but it can also be a long, slow, and stressful process.

There are a few important things to consider when introducing new sugar gliders :-

• Intact males that are mature will usually not get along. Males are territorial, and will fight for dominance of their “territory”. Often times brothers, or males that have been introduced during adolescence will be able to be housed together. Sugar gliders use scent to mark their territory, intact males living together will attempt to out scent the other male, resulting in an musky odors no matter how much cage cleaning you do. It is not a 100% guarantee that intact males introduced at a young age will continue to get a long after sexual maturity. Neutering one or both males may be necessary, and should be prepared for.

• Introducing young gliders is easier than introducing older sugar gliders. Older sugar gliders generally have accepted their “colony” situation, even if they have been housed alone.

• Never introduce an adult male to an adolescent female. Adult males may attempt to breed her if she is ready or not. This can result in severe injury of the female or even kill her.

• Sugar gliders of the same age and same size are the most successful introductions. Female to female pairings are good, and male to female pairings are best. If you do not want joeys, neuter the male.

• If you are intending to breed, be weary of trio or colony situation. Often times these result in baby stealing, cannibalization, rejected babies, and injuries. Sometimes they will work out, other times they don’t. Breeding is best done in pairs to avoid unnecessary stress and potential dangers.

• Avoid introducing a new glider to a breeding pair or colony. Colonies are sensitive structures. Introducing a new glider to an established pair is dangerous for all sugar gliders and joeys involved.

• Avoid introducing a female with joeys in pouch to a new male. The new male will be able to sense they are not his in most cases, and destroy the joeys.

• If you are placing a new male with a female that has been with a different male, put the female in a cage by herself for at least a week. Be sure the cage is clean, toys, and pouches are clean. This will allow the other male's scent diminish off of her.

• New sugar gliders should always be quarantined before beginning introductions to your current sugar gliders. Sugar gliders are prone to stress. Even if the sugar glider was healthy when it left the previous owner/breeder, stress lowers their immune system and can make them more susceptible to illness.


How to introduce sugar gliders :-


• Introduce sugar gliders in a neutral territory where you have control. A bathroom that has been glider proofed or small tent works great. Be prepared to break up a fight if necessary by having a towel or small blanket on hand. Should a fight incur, toss the blanket on them and gently remove one of the sugar gliders from the situation. If a fight broke out, this means you will have to take the introduction slower.

• Place the sugar gliders cages where they can see and hear each other. Be sure they are not too close that one sugar glider can grab the tail of the other glider. Often times it is recommended to have at least 1 foot of clearance between the cages.

• Sugar gliders are scent oriented. Trade pouches, toys, and even cages with the gliders you are trying to introduce. Placing peppermint or vanilla on the sugar gliders to give them the same scent before introducing them may be beneficial. After about a week or so, try again to reintroduce them on neutral territory.

• Don’t overwhelm the cages with toys. You want the sugar gliders to be curious about the “guy next door”.

• If introductions fail the first time around, try again. Each sugar glider is different, and may take a bit longer to accept it’s new friend. In extreme, and rare cases it may take a full month or more to get the sugar gliders to accept each other.

Tips for newly introduced sugar gliders :-


• Place the sugar gliders in the same cage for the first time in the morning. This way you will be awake and alert to break-up any possible fighting.

• Don’t overwhelm the cage with toys. You want to watch them interact with each other. Add toys as time goes on, and you are sure they have accepted each other.

• Tiny spats are normal in the beginning. This is how sugar glider decide their “place” within to colony. However, should the sugar gliders “ball-up” one must be removed and slower introductions must be preformed.

• Be sure to offer more than one sleeping place the first few weeks.

• Offer more than one feeding station at least 2-3 days, or until you are sure they are letting each other eat.

i ) Cage [ side by side ]


ii ) Pouch [ through mesh ]



d ) Nail Trimming

The nails of your glider are made to cling to branches, climb trees, leaping and griping. Their little nails left untrimmed can cause little punctures up and down your skin while you are letting them play on you. This in turn could allow bacteria into your skin, which can result in a condition known as dermatitis. Trimming the nails of your glider is important not only to you, but as a safety precaution to them as well. It may take 2 people to trim your gliders nails until you get the hang of it.


You will need :-

i ) A towel / sleeping pouch

ii ) Nail Clippers

iii ) Another helping hand if available

iv ) Corn Starch, Nitrate Stick, or Blood Stopper

v ) Confidence



It is best to trim your gliders nails in the morning, when they are tired. Some gliders will allow you to trim their nails quite easily as they become used to the process. Use the towel to hold the glider, be careful not to hold it too tightly. If needed, cover your glider's head to reduce stress. Take the nail clippers and clip off the very end of each nail. Be careful not to cut too much of the nail. It will bleed if you cut off too much. Should bleeding occur, use cornstarch, nitrate sticks or blood stopper to help clot the blood and stop the bleeding.

There are also other things you can do to help keep your glider's nails down to size. Such as using a product from called the Nail-O-Matic. These products are both very helpful, however the Emery Track is adjustable to fit in many different wheel styles, and in my experience works faster, and holds up longer.